Category Archives: Finances

December 2014 Early Retirement Progress

We contributed $4,797.72 this month to our retirement accounts  We lost $2,275.18 in investment value this month. 

I did realize that my end of year numbers don’t quite match up with the actual balances in our accounts – the statements don’t include dividends in the “investment gain”.  So our actual end of year balances are almost 10k higher than my value.  I need to figure out how to make sure those dividends get added into the calculations for 2015.

We did really well this year, and I may contribute another $500 to my Roth for 2014 if we fall under the AGI limits.  I have $9500 in there, and another $500 would let me qualify for Fidelity’s advantage class of mutual fund, dropping my investment expenses for that account. I need to do our taxes first before I can see if we can do that this year.

2014 Totals

In 2014 we contributed $45,689.7 (114.22% of our goal of 40k), and we’ve made $29,804.04 in investment gains (147.10% of our planned total).

Our ending account balance (according to my numbers) was $413,181.62 (vs a planned $397,949.15)

2014 Goals – Massive Fail

I made a few goals for 2014, almost none of which worked out.  Oh well, I wasn’t expecting to pick up and move either!

Health Goals

Massive Fail here.

  • I gained 20lbs instead of losing 15: FAIL.
  •  I started out the year exercising, but then we moved, and I haven’t gotten back into it other than trying to make 10k steps per day via my Fitbit: FAIL
  • Eating 3 servings of fruits or veggies day?  Nope: FAIL  I’m lucky to get one at dinner…

Financial Goals

Technically failure, but only because we sold our house and lost that asset, although it may have been close if we hadn’t sold the house.

  • Pay off all non-mortgage debt that carries interest.  Everything but the car (at 0% interest) is paid off: SUCCESS
  • Get to 650k Net Worth.  We are sitting about 550k, which without the house is really darn good. If we hadn’t sold the house, we’d have been above 650k based on Zillow’s current estimate of our old house.  FAIL
  • Increase our assets to 1.2 million.  Without the house, we’re down over half a million.  We might have made it to 1.2 million with the house.  FAIL

Household/Parenting Goals

  • Get rid of diapers – we have stopped using her cloth diapers – they don’t fit her any more, so we’ve had to move to pull-ups for at night.  At least we’re completely out of diapers during the day with very few accidents!  I have a feeling we’ll not be buying any more pull ups though, we’re starting to have a couple of nights where she wakes up dry. We’re also not really pushing diaperless at night because of the moving. I’m gonna call this one a (technical) SUCCESS
  • Get rid of another 365 things in 365 days.  We got rid of way more, both via donations and taking things to the dump.  I am already starting a list of things to get rid of once it’s out of storage: SUCCESS
  • Finish the tile in our basement project.  I paid someone to do this, but it was done ($750 including painting!) to show the house:  SUCCESS

The good thing is that we’ve made a serious commitment to saving more for our early retirement this year.  I’ve increased my salary, we’ve upped our contributions to max out our 403(b)s in 2015, as well as contributing to an HSA and hopefully two Roths next year.  Our retirement accounts have increased significantly (from $337,687.88 in January to $423,630.36 at the beginning of December), even if our Net Worth didn’t.

Early next year, I’ll be posting my goals to fail at for 2015.  Have a happy and safe New Year!

Year End Dividends – Happy Holidays!

Fidelity paid out their end of year distributions on 12/19 this year.  We received just over 5k in the December payouts, bringing us to a total of just over 9k of payouts for the year (vs just over 5k last year).  Unfortunately, all but $60 of that is in tax-advantaged accounts and not available to us yet.  It’s nice to know what our yearly “income” is from our investments though.

Once those payments cover our basic living expenses, we can definitely retire and never need to withdraw our principal.  Of course 9k, covers one month of expenses at the moment, but we’ll be adding more money into the account over the next ten years, and will hopefully pump that up.  In our ideal situation, the dividends/capital gains from our mutual funds completely cover our expenses, but I’m prepared to withdraw principal at a 3% rate as well.

Maybe next year we’ll get almost 20k!  I’ll be happy at 15k, but at the new rate we’re putting in money, we should see a significant increase this year.

Have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season!

Geographic Arbitrage of State Taxation in Retirement

We’ve come into a very interesting situation since moving states: Pennsylvania taxes all contributions to a “tax-deferred” account (like a 401(k)/403(b) or Traditional IRA).  BUT, it does not tax withdrawals on those accounts.  We have about 400k that we won’t have state taxation on if we stay in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania – AND we didn’t pay state tax in VA on that amount either.  However, over the next ten years, we’ll be paying PA state tax on about 750k of contributions to our retirement accounts.  If we then move to a state that taxes retirement withdrawals (like Virginia, Colorado, etc), we’ll end up being “double taxed” on that 750k.  If we don’t want to double pay state taxes, we’re stuck with retiring in states that don’t have an income tax or don’t tax retirement withdrawals.

However, it does present a potential for geographic arbitrage if you are so inclined – you may never have to pay state taxes on your retirement money.  Earn it in a state where you can deduct it (following federal rules), and then withdraw it in a state that doesn’t tax it.  Note, I didn’t say *spend* it in that state necessarily….  I have some ideas percolating on how to withdraw all of it prior to leaving the state of PA.  It also bolsters my argument for moving to a state like Wyoming to retire – sorry, most of the other non-tax states are too far south for my tastes!

Disclaimer: I am not a CPA, and this is just my interpretation of PA’s taxation rules.

Have you considered what moving in retirement may do to the taxation of your “tax-advantaged” money?

To rollover or not – the importance of choice and fees

When you leave a job, you generally have the option to rollover your 401(k)/403(b) to an IRA or to your new 401(k)/403(b) plan.  In our history, I’ve always rolled over our accounts to a Fidelity Rollover IRA.  Dad and I each have one – collecting all of our previous employer plans into one.  They’re at Fidelity because that’s where my first 401(k) was and it’s been convenient.  And currently, Dad’s 403(b) and 401(a) are through Fidelity.

For the majority of my working career, I had a SIMPLE IRA through Fidelity – I was able to buy/sell *anything* Fidelity offered for a $25/year fee (plus commissions, mutual fund fees, etc).  I learned early on to just buy NTF (no transaction fee) funds and save myself that fee, but I didn’t understand mutual fund expense ratios.  I just picked what looked good and was recommended – yeah, I was naive.  Over the years though, I’ve learned better.

When my company moved from a SIMPLE IRA to a “real” 401(k), we had some pretty pathetic choices, I had already learned about mutual fund expense ratios by then, and the lowest possible fee was 0.23% for a Russell 3000 Index private fund (seriously, there was no public ticker symbol for it).  I put 100% of my money into that fund, and made up the rest of our allocation in our Rollover IRAs and in Dad’s 403(b).  What if I didn’t have another option?  I would have had to try to make up my desired allocation from high fee funds ( > 1%) and would have spent dearly for it.

Most recently, up until yesterday, we had had a 5% allocation in REITs – and Dad’s 403(b) offered a REIT fund with what I thought was a halfway decent fee: 0.77% (CSRIX).   With all of our other expense ratios being less than 0.25% (most in the 0.05-0.07% range), I was seriously considering eliminating our real estate allocation.  I did some more research on whether I wanted to keep the real estate in my allocation enough to continue paying the fee.  I also looked through Fidelity’s offerings, and found FSRVX at a 0.09% net and 0.19% gross ER – I pay .09% until Fidelity decides to not discount it anymore.  It gave us exposure to real estate for a lot less.  I sold the CSRIX shares in dad’s 403(b) account and bought FSRVX in my Rollover IRA. We have an agreement that my account maintains higher risk than his does, so I get things like REITS, small cap, emerging markets, etc and his focuses more on bonds and total market.  Since we balance our allocation across multiple accounts, it really doesn’t make any difference.

How do fees play into this?

Most people would agree that a fee of 0.19% is better than a fee of 0.77%, but by how much?  If the fund’s performance was 6% annually, then the fund with .19% fees would actually return 5.81% and the fund with .77% fees would return 5.23% – which would you rather have?  Over 10 years, that’s a huge difference.  The charts below assume a starting contribution of 10k, and no continuing contributions (meaning “the real world” has an even larger difference).

Hypothetical Growth of 10k

 

Interest Rate: 5.81 5.23
After Year: 10000 10000
1 10581 10523
2 11195.7561 11073.3529
3 11846.22953 11652.48926
4 12534.49547 12261.91444
5 13262.74965 12903.21257
6 14033.31541 13578.05059
7 14848.65103 14288.18263
8 15711.35766 15035.45459
9 16624.18754 15821.80886
10 17590.05283 16649.28946

As you can see, there’s a $940 difference at the end of ten years.  It grows to a difference of $4441 if you contribute 10k each year.  And that’s the difference of 0.58% in fees – imagine what you’re paying if you have fees over 1%!

If you have the opportunity to roll over an old workplace plan – unless you’ve got stellar choices already – it sometimes pays to do so.  Most brokerages offer rollover IRAs – pick your favorite low-fee broker and put everything together.  You’ll have access to their full range of funds, and there are very few online brokerages which don’t offer NTF funds of some sort, although Vanguard is well known for their low cost index funds (in my opinion, Fidelity’s Spartan funds are pretty darn close and not worth moving everything).  You’ll still have to pick the best options in your employer plan, but you’ll have the flexibility to buy cheaper funds elsewhere (but still tax advantaged).

And I would be remiss in not mentioning this, but if you have a rollover IRA hanging around – I really don’t recommend trying a backdoor Roth, you’ll get royally screwed on taxes.  This disadvantage can be overcome by rolling any IRA you have into a current employer’s plan.

Detailed Financial Picture – December 2014

November’s Numbers

As of December 4, 2014, we are $14,000 in debt without a mortgage to speak of (yet).  We currently have $536,285.88 in assets.  Our investment accounts are at $423,630.36. Our Net Worth is $522,285.88, up from $504,813.87 last month (3.46% increase).

November was a relatively quiet month.  We spent more than usual because we bought all our Christmas gifts (but it was only about $600 more than usual), but still quite low spending for us (yay no house!).  We’re paying storage fees at the moment, and our mortgage plus “escrow” will be almost twice the storage fees.

Dad had his annual review a few days ago and will be getting a nice  bonus and 2.something% raise.  We might open a Roth for 2014 for him if our AGI allows us to.  Or we might use it to fully fund our HSA at the beginning of the year.  Dad doesn’t get to contribute to his HSA via payroll deductions, so we have to manually contribute after-tax dollars and then claim the deduction on our taxes.  I’m debating on whether to contribute to the HSA his company uses (Optum bank) or open our own separate one for our contributions.  We can’t get access to the investment options or documents until we open the account, and we can’t open the account until 2015 when we’re covered by the new plan – not that I’ve been able to find anyway. Anyone have an HSA “bank” they’re particularly happy with?

Debt (in the order we’re paying it down):

  • Line of credit (8.75%): $0.00
  • Chase (4.99% for life): $ 0.00 
  • Student loans (aggregated 4.21%):  $0.00 
  • Car loan (0%): $14,000 (-500.00)
  • Mortgage (4.125%): $0.00 

Total paid off in November:  $500

November 2014 Early Retirement Progress

GOAL!

We contributed $4,817.72 this month to our retirement accounts  We gained $6,479.76 in investment gains this month. 

We’ve now contributed over our annual goal of $40k into our accounts – one month early.  One big thing that helped us is that my company match changed from 4% to 8%.  The other thing that helped is that both Dad and I are now maxing out our 403(b) plans.

I learned something interesting during open enrollment for Dad – he has a “mandatory” 2% contribution to a 401(a) plan – and it doesn’t count “against” the IRS limit of 17,500 (for 2014).  The IRS limit is for “elected” contributions, and the 2% isn’t elective, so he’s really getting to put aside almost $20,000 through his company’s plan this year.  We just clicked the “take the maximum out” checkbox in February and left it at that.  And as of January 1, 2015, he’ll be fully vested in his 401(a)/403(b) plans.  I still have to wait three years to be vested in my 8% match.

Next year, we’re hoping to contribute up to $70k via company plans, Roths, an HSA and our taxable accounts.  We *might* squeak out $75k.  I’m inordinately excited about how much we can save towards our retirement next year! That makes me weird in a good way right?

2014 Totals

So far, for 2014, we’ve contributed $40,891.98 (102.23% of our goal of 40k), and we’ve made $32,079.22 in investment gains (158.33% of our planned total).

Milestone in my Taxable Account

I finally hit a milestone in my taxable account: enough money to buy into a mutual fund.

I had previously been buying ETFs 1-2 shares at a time, leaving anywhere from $20-$80 in cash, and not really working for me.  Today, I deposited enough to bring me above the magic $2,500 for FSTMX.  I left my two “raw” stocks (MCD, ADM) invested because they would cost me ($7.95 each trade) to get rid of them, and they’re throwing off (small) dividends.

At the end of the day, Fidelity will have me owning just over $2600 in FSTMX.  I’ve changed my auto-transfer from my bank account to an auto-purchase of the fund as well, so that’ll continue to keep growing. The auto-investment ability into the mutual fund is what decided me.  I can “set it and forget it” to a certain extent.

I had a devil of a time picking between FSTMX and FUSEX. Similar expense ratios (0.10% gross, .10% and .095% net), FUSEX throws off more dividends, but it’ll mean the difference of $10/year for me at my level).  What really made the decision for me was that FSTMX is total market rather than just S&P500, and FSTMX only has 1% turnover vs the 3% of FUSEX.  In a taxable account, that can be a big difference.

This money is nominally earmarked for retirement, but could be used for other goals as they come up.  The goal is to build this account up enough to survive from when we retire at about 50 to 59.5 when we can start withdrawing from our tax-advantaged accounts without penalty – we have a long way to go!

Next milestone?  $10,000 to get into the advantage class of shares (FSTVX)!

Do you tend to invest in mutual funds or ETFs?  Why?

The Cash Problem

This topic has come up in conversation many times, but the gist is, what do you do with a large sum of cash that you may or may not need soon (ie. emergency fund)?  Next year, we’re going to put aside almost $1000/mth towards our Roth IRAs – except we won’t know until March/April 2016 if we can contribute to our Roths or not (due to income limits).  There’s a really good chance we will be able to based on our deductions, but it’s not a 100% chance, so I don’t want to put money into a Roth to have to pull it back out again at tax time because we made too much.

$1000/mth is a lot of money to not have working for us.  Our best interest rate is 0.79% at CapitalOne360 (to give you an idea, we’re getting $45/mth on the 85k waiting for our house purchase).  If we put the money into our taxable investment account, I’m not sure that I’d go through the effort of taking it out as I’d pay a short term trading fee on at least $3k of that (I’m a buy and hold investor).  I need to research if Fidelity will let me transfer in-kind between the taxable and Roth accounts – then I can just move over $5500 of FSTMX and be done with it.  If we can’t contribute to a Roth for the previous year, it’ll just end up in our taxable account anyway.

The Roths are only going to have a max of 11k annually (unless we get another limit bump from the IRS), but our emergency fund will have almost 60k in it.  That’s a lot of unemployed little green workers.  I’m tempted to split how we deal with it and put 5-6 months in actual cash, and the rest in a taxable investment account with a relatively low risk.  I know we don’t want to be losing it all in a market crash, but at the same time, I feel bad for not putting it to work for us.

What do you do with your “cash” buffers/emergency funds?  Do you just leave them in a checking/savings/money market account or invest them more conservatively? 

Our Temporary Budget

We’re socking away a lot of money over the next few months. And I think we’ll have way more than we need come March based on a recent closing estimate from our mortgage lender. We use You Need a Budget for zero-based budgeting, and live on last month’s income, so I know at the beginning of the month exactly what we have to spend. We don’t have a “normal” monthly budget; it varies based on our income in the previous month. However, we do have some baselines each month that I then modify as needed.

Income

Our income is after taxes, 401(k) contributions and other paycheck deducted items (like an FSA, health insurance, and my parking pass). Our after-tax incomes will change again next year as we will no longer contribute to an FSA, but to an HSA instead.    This is November’s budget – which means, this is all of the income we earned in October’s paychecks.  The reimbursements is the guaranteed money we get from the FSA for daycare.  We spent the 5k legal limit early in the year (by April based on DC daycare prices), and I already filed the reimbursement, so we get $192.31 every two weeks until the end of the year.  We budget based on two paychecks per month for Dad (although he gets paid bi-weekly), and in those months where we have 3 paychecks, we use that entire paycheck (~$2100) for paying down debt, or putting more to investments, etc.

Salaries 8,625.15
Reimbursements 384.62
Interest 43.00
Total Income 9,052.77

Expenses

Our Expenses are relatively low since we’re not paying a mortgage or most of the utilities (although I keep telling my mom to tell me how much she wants us to contribute to the Internet, Water, and Electricity bills – I’ve just been contributing $50/mth to her checking account).  Many of these expenses are not spent in a month, like car insurance – we pay it every 6 months – but we set aside the money on a monthly basis so it’s there when we need it.

We’ll also be saving less as we start paying on a new mortgage in the March timeframe (estimated principal, interest, escrow is $2200) along with all the other expenses that come along with owning a house – although, there’s a top to bottom warranty for everything in the house for the first year from the builder, so I don’t expect we’ll be spending much in repairs.

We use a VoIP phone line through CallCentric, and we brought it with us – that’s where the “Phone and Internet” line comes in.  We pay $1.50/mth for E911 service, and per minute for all other calls.  We tend to spend about $2 in phone calls since Dad works from home – it’s nice because he uses a softphone to join conference calls from his laptop.  I budget $5/mth which is a bit overkill, but covers are heaviest usage months.

Food
   Groceries 300.00
   Restaurants 150.00
   wine & Beer 60.00
Recreation
   His fun money 200.00
   her fun money 200.00
   entertainment 50.00
Debt (car payment) 500.00
Pets 40.00
Daughter Person
   Daycare 800.00
   Clothing 25.00
   Misc 50.00
   College 50.00
Personal
   Life Insurance 50.00
   Doctor/Dentist 20.00
   Prescriptions/meds 15.00
   Gifts 25.00
   Misc 50.00
   Memberships 80.00
   Clothing 25.00
Transportation
   Gas 300.00
   Car Insurance 100.00
   Repairs & Maintenance 50.00
   Inspection 11.00
   Registration/Property Taxes 25.00
Housing
   Storage 1,014.80
   Utilities 50.00
   Phone & Internet 5.00
   Cell Phones 95.26
   E-mail/hosting accounts 8.00
Charity 20.00
Total Expenses 4,369.06

Savings

We have a separate section for savings – money that we’re not planning on spending in the near future, or are earmarked for a want and not a “need” (although, a lot of the above are for wants as well).  These are things like saving for our new house down payment – and the appliances we’ll need to be buying, money we send to our after tax investment accounts, and money that gets added to the emergency fund.  Right now, the money sitting waiting for moving costs and the down payment is acting as our emergency fund, and anything left after I allocate the rest of the money goes to the emergency fund.   Once we’ve moved and have an idea of where that fund stands in relation to our car payment and investments, we’ll likely throw any “extra” to the car payment or (more likely) the taxable investments.  Until we’ve moved and settled, I’d rather have a large cash buffer though.

Emergency Fund 883.71
Investment 300.00
Moving 2,000.00
New “stuff” (House) 1,500.00
Total Savings 4,683.71

If you made it this far, you are a saint. I know there is a lot of room for improvement, but we’re limited in what we can do at my mom’s house as far as buying in bulk to save on the grocery budget, or using less gas (because she’s far away from everything). I’m hoping to lower our expenses somewhat once we’ve moved and settled, along with selling several things and bringing in some extra money.